Teluk Cempedak

May 27 - May 28, 2012

After so much city trekking we were both in need of some tranquility.  We sought out the advice of the KL tourism centre who advised us to head towards the east coast where we would find exactly what we are looking for; to experience the way of life for Malaysian people.  

Off the main train route which runs up the west side of the country into Thalland we took the bus heading east towards Kuantan which appeared to be the first sea side location; hopefully diverted from the main tourist track, a place where we could rest, write and edit photos. 

A three hour ride later and we were taken through the outskirts, then into the main centre of Kuantan; building after apartment block after shop and to the bus terminal was all it took for us to decide that this was definitely not the experience we were looking for.  

The east coast of Malaysia is predominantly Muslim which was evident.  Despite the heat women were covered head to toe; heads draped in patterned materials, sleeves 3 quarter lengths or longer and full length skirts or trousers with closed toe shoes or alternatively some in full black burkas exposing only their eyes.  I was the only western women in sight and consciously used my pashmina to cover my otherwise bare, tattooed shoulders out of respect for their culture as I hoisted my bag onto my shoulders.  

Deciding on a new location we were informed that the only means of transport to Teluk Chempedak is by taxi which dropped us off an a sandy corner in front of couple shops selling beach paraphernalia, cold drinks and tacky souvenirs.  Smelling the salty air of the coast with its shores lined with coconut and palm trees was immediately refreshing.  The next most noticeable establishment on the parade were a McDonalds and KFC; still not quite the Malaysian culinary experience we were hoping for. 

It turned out we had arrived in the sea side retreat for the residents of Kuantan on a public holiday. All the hotels had promptly raised their room rates by 30% reflecting those fully booked accommodations and limiting our options.  Julian searched for about 45 minutes until we finally settled on the cheapest option which was still outrageously overpriced; RM70 ($23CND) got us a room with 2 beds and private bathroom, with a lovely view of a brick wall two feet away and questionable cleanliness.  My hunger got the best of me resulting in a slightly grumpy demeanour which didn't take long to satisfy with a plate of chicken and rice curry from vendor whom we ended up sitting with for a good hour.  A happy, well travelled Malaysian chef enthusiastically shared his photos of his work experiences abroad through Europe. 

The South China sea was beckoning as we cross a boardwalk towards a quieter sandy bay, away from the main beach, when we were confronted unexpectedly by a troop of monkeys lead by a fearless alpha male. He was strutting along the boardwalk and intimidating the tourists whilst the younger ones chased each other from handrails to trees and back again and the remainder made their way towards the rubbish bins which provide thier evening meal.  Having never come in contact with monkeys in the wild before, fear would not have been my first instinct. I was thrown off by the young girls in front of us who over-reacted with screams that did nothing but inflate the primates ego further; uncertain how to react, Julian and I lead the way through the group as I used my wide brim hat as a shield from waist down - just in case. 

Coming from a part of the world where we swim in glacier fed lakes (for about three minutes before we return, shivering to the banks) the warmth of this endless body of water was baffling.  The sea is a bit of an unknown entity to me and admittedly and what lies beneath makes me wary.  Julians suggestion to jump in from a rock point into water slightly fiercer than the rest of the beach was not appealing; baby steps in from the beach suited me just fine.  I soon eased into the comfort of the salty waters and was becoming more comfortable with the feel of current and waves, when Happy Pete approached; the only westerner besides us around these parts so far. The three of us chatted for about 30 mins whilst languishing in the warmth and made that connection that the travelling community relies upon so often. The extra bed in our room soon was offered and then became occupied by this 6'8" smiling giant from Manchester who turned even more heads than I.  

As evening fell the beach grew crowded. The Malaysians tend to start their day late and continue long after midnight to avoid the worst of the heat. Whilst temperatures are still quite warm enough for T-shirts and shorts after dark, the oppressive and energy draining tropical heat of the day abates and quite often young families may be found eating their evening meal after 11pm. 

Chempedak that weekend was playing host to trials for the SE Asian games and boxing matches had been going on all afternoon. These gave way to an insanely loud PA system and an area was cleared for the evenings holiday entertainment. Choreographed performances ranging from 16 children performing a playfully innocent provocative dance,  young adults danced in elaborate outfits reminding me of peacocks, five teenagers obviously near the start of their careers as breakdancers and ripped young men contested for bragging rights in a body builders competition.  I found this last one quite interesting in such a reserved community of Muslims who swim fully clothed at all times. 

We sampled some bite sized pieces of banana stuffed grilled dough; still warm and gooey which would have gone perfectly with the maple syrup we are travelling with, laughed and applauded at the appropriate places and generally joined in with the party atmosphere. The air was constantly filled with bubbles from the many kids around floating on a light sea breeze and our new room mate was another constant source of fascination for the locals.

The next morning the three of us shared a cab with the only other westerner whom we had met the previous evening. Roy is a young Dutchman who had come to Malaysia on a field trip as part of his degree. Not wishing to waste an opportunity he had finished his obligatory time and decided to stay on for a further three weeks to travel around the country. The four of us piled our luggage into a long suffering Proton and headed back to Kuatan where we could catch our next bus.

Pete was heading south but Roy and the two of us were all going north to Cherating so after some initial disagreements with ATM machines, we exchanged the usual contact details, bade our jolly giant farewell and boarded our luxurious ride for the one hour journey up the coast.

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

May 24 - May 27, 2012

Darkness had fallen by the time we reached our final destination, the capital city; Kuala Lumpur (KL).  Withdrawing some local currency we were immediately confronted by a young man begging for some of our ringgit; the value of which we were still uncertain.  One train stop down the line from Sentral Station (not a spelling mistake; we were to come across many such leftovers from 120 years of British rule) Suzies guesthouse was easy to find off Jalan Sultan (Jalan literally translate as Street) and located on the outskirts of China Town.  Relieved to be free of the weight of our bags we rehydrated with some hot tea and ventured out to satisfy out stomachs.  

This must be the first China Town in my experience so far that actually made me feel like I was stepping into the country itself, perhaps influenced by our recent foray into Hong Kong and recognizing the kinship. Red lanterns and signs in Chinese characters hung illuminated over the bustling market place vibrant with a particular energy and the aroma of food lingered in the air which I grew increasingly interested in sampling.  Tourists and locals alike thronged narrow, crowded streets even as it was approaching 10pm, amongst stalls selling cheap counterfeit bags, watches and purses who's merchants continuously call out to passersbys "special price for you, Sir.  Come have a look!"  or "A new bag for you ma'am? Discount just for you!".

  

A group of tables hosted a menu which we peered at and we were immediately accosted by two people insisting we stay. "Sit, Sir." "Beer Sir?"  The prices appeared reasonable and food choices attractive so we sat under the glowing red lanterns. My senses were stimulated as my eyes darted around the scene attempting to take it all in; the cacophony of noise, people, smells and colour as always an assault after a day travelling.  One man took over our service offering beer which we turned down.  Confused, he asked his colleague to confront us with an actual, real, three dimensional bottle of beer which we turned down again, as they hovered over our table waiting for us to make a decision on our gastronomic choice.  

We avoided the temptation to spend money on things as we wandered around this part of town for the three days we spent in KL but one little place got the best of me.  We were tempted into a shop with free Chinese tea samples then lured further in by the extensive amount of gorgeous tea sets, loose leaf tea and a beautiful young Chinese woman who's passion for tea far exceeded even Julians'.  She approached and quickly needled us for information on our lifestyle so she could suggest the perfect tea accessories and within moments presented us with small ceramic cups and a loose leaf tea defuser; perfect for travelling.  I could feel myself getting sucked in to her tricks but it was when she sat us down at a table and we experienced a tea ceremony with all the pomp and posture as tradition dictates that the deal was cemented.  She was so very passionate about tea and her love was infectious.  The set up was gorgeous; a carved, double layered tray served as draining board for washing the tea as well as service platter for the ornate tea set. As the tea continued to steep, the delicate hands of our host repeatedly filled our three ounce hand painted cups each time we drained them, her constant chatter educating us in the manner, the importance and the benefits of tea. The flavour was gorgeous, and changed markedly with each steeping. She exalted the value of tea and possibility of aging it to increase its worth considerably in quite the same was as wine ages, matures and gains value as years pass.  I was sold and despite the misgivings of Julian who remains much more an advocate of black rather than green tea, I managed to wrestle funds and am now the proud owner of my own little travel Chinese tea set. 

The main attraction of KL for me may have been China Town but for Julian however he came for an entirely different reason; the Patronas Towers:

"Ever since the towers were unveiled to the world in 1999 I have been an admirer. Something about the twin metallic Goliaths' captured my imagination and among the tallest buildings in the world I was very much looking forward to photographing them. Of course, 13 years after their completion I could never hope to take either the very best shot nor even anything original. They are what they are, they are (beautifully) lit the same way night after night and every angle has been covered by those more competent and more organized than I; I just wanted to see them with my own eyes and take my own images away as is my habit. 

Another habit of mine is to rise before Brianne and take a morning stroll alone around new places. Partly to get my bearings but mostly just to soak up the atmosphere of a place without distractions from my own life. I had already sneaked a look at the Towers that morning and got my first impressions, touched them and found the point I wanted to shoot from, so when Brianne and I retuned that afternoon I was able to rush around, gushing at the gills to her about how fabulous the design is "And from this angle…" "And how about from here?" "Do you wanna touch it?" whilst she humoured me (somewhat unenthusiastically I thought) and told me yes, they were very nice.

Waiting for the light to change from afternoon to dusk, we went in search of some sustenance. We headed NE out of the financial district and crossing a couple of busy arterial roads (during rush hour) and walking for about an hour we ended up settling on a roadside establishment and a dish of "mee goering" which it turned out translated as "bloody hot noodles!" Not exactly to my taste but with hunger pangs abated, we headed back into the city centre on our return journey. The air between us was a little fractious, I would have been happy to wait, hungry, in the centre for darkness, Brianne objected to walking through miles of nondescript concrete to find her much needed meal and had developed a blister on one toe, but eventually we made it back to the towers just as dusk was falling and bought ice creams and postcards. 

The postcards were a revelation. I had approached the Twin Towers from the SW, walked around the front of them and then across the junction for the best view. There are skyscrapers on all sides and I just assumed that was how one viewed the Towers. An arial shot however shows there is the small matter of a 50 acre public park behind them. We both thought it might be a good idea to investigate and I suggested we might find the park if we walked round the other side of the towers. Briannes' mind apparently works slightly differently and suggested we might just try and sneak straight through the middle; in the front doors and out the back. 

As darkness fell I set up the tripod and shot from a couple of locations for about 15 minutes whilst Brianne waited patiently. When I was done and packed away, we strolled nonchalantly back across the junction, circumvented the obvious security guards and sneaked in the front doors; right into the biggest, busiest shopping mall in Malaysia!

Apparently the existence of the mall is common knowledge since there were about 10,000 people there before us, spread across the park at the rear and five floors, including a huge food court (which would have been nice to know about a few hours previous). The park was teeming with folk just out enjoying the cooler evening air, socializing and doing the things city folk do. Having wandered around the shops, bought nothing and made our way outside; I dutifully joined the throng of tourists with their i-Phones, i-Pads, compact cameras, DSLRS and tri-pods, and set up my own."

Rural Malaysia

May 24th, 2012

Tickets in hand we waited for the train which would take us to our next destination.  We passed through the Malaysian boarder control who paid particular interest in my tattoo as they stamped our passports, sent out bags through an X-ray machine before ushering us towards the train.  At first glance this train appeared worn and uncared for in comparison to trains I have travelled in the past.  I took out antibacterial wipes and attempted to bring the folding table in front of my chair to a state I felt comfortable with using and decided to put off using the toilet as long as possible. 

Taking this train out of Singapore and into the countryside of Malaysia was my first taste of seeing people living in the rural tropics.  The city gave away to countryside; the land was flat and covered with vast palm and rubber plantations. Workers in straw hats amongst the trees would often look up; the whites of their eyes a beautiful contrast to their dark skin as they offered big smiles and waves at the passing train.  Small, single story homes with tin roofs and sometimes chicken wire for walls were sheltered in the shade of coconut trees.  A woman bathed a child in the sink, a young boy chasing his friends rode a flouresent pink bicycle far too large for him as cows and chickens roamed free in the streets.  Many homes were abandoned in heaps of rubble and litter was strategically piled on the dirt ground. It appears in these countryside environments the local services are somewhat limited.

The palm plantations gave away to jungle as the land gained elevation to small mountains.  Standing to stretch my legs I wandered to the back of the train to find the doors stood open interrupting the air conditioned cabin, whipping warm air through the caboose.  I carefully took hold of the exterior hand rails on either side and leaned outside the train drinking in the hot, sweet air.  More waves and smiles came from almost every person we passed which I returned enthusiastically; the energy of the land and its people beautiful and refreshing from the cites we have been passing through for the last few weeks. 

A moment like this should be shared and I decided to fish Julian out from beneath his book and headphones.  We both stood leaning outside the train seeking more people to vibe off whilst the unfamiliar tropical landscape filed us with feelings only travelling through foreign places can evoke. A Malaysian man joined us, smoking cigarettes and he and Julian were soon involved in a lengthy discussion on the economics of the region whilst I was once more engaged with what was passing by outside.  Homes now stood a few feet off the ground on stilts to protect against flooding during the monsoon and the land continued to grow steeper and the jungle thicker between the areas of cultivated trees.  The unfamiliar call of birds and insects filled my ears along with the clattering of the train as the air cooled and the setting sun set fire to the sky.  I considered jumping off the train at one of our many stationed pauses; the idea of venturing into yet another busy metropolis not nearly as appealing as these homes on stilts with their smiling residents. 

Singapore Harbour

May 23rd, 2012

Julian returned from his early  morning walk and we headed towards the harbour front stopping at one of the delightful Asian bakeries where he had discovered cheese boats. A hollow, thin flakey pastery with a solid block of cheddar cheese down the middle, topped with grated cheese and a sprinkling of sugar.  Not allowing myself such sinful treats I opted for a mango yogurt bubble tea and some eggs, beans and tofu on rice.  I had a taste of the cheese boat and decided it was definitely worth the calories and immediately regretted my decision. 

 Having taken the LRT to Harbour Front station we exited the underground rail system onto a pavement lined with labourers taking refuge from the hot sun during a break. Approaching the harbour front the heat was more than I could bare.  I was blinded by the early afternoon sun as it reflected off the calm waters and before me and the glass fronted skyscrapers of the city's financial district to our left.  

Despite the Singapore harbour being the busiest port in the world, there was only 3 water taxis present in this horseshoe shaped bay which forms the base upon which the city was built around; all sea traffic these days kept well out of sight.  With squinting eyes I stopped for a moment to take a closer look at the buildings surrounding me.  As my pupils dilated to accept the intense light I realized that I was standing among some of the most unique modern structures which more closely resembled works of art rather than a city centre.  A white stone statue of the Merlion, half lion and half fish; Singapores national symbol, stood about 300m distance directly opposite our entry point, spurting a stream of water from its mouth into the harbour.  It was the imposing building to the right which  is the main focal point. Built since Julians last visit in 2000, towering 57 stories above the harbour; 3 individual buildings gleamed in the sunlight.  Along the top, a boat like platform connected all three creating one structure.  The impressive feat of architecture only grew more stunning as we spent the day exploring it. 

First and most importantly in that instant however was my desperate need of air conditioning and a toilet.  I headed for the closest doors available which tuned out to be a shopping centre located along the entire length of the base of the hotel; the air con was frigid against my hot skin as I breathed a sigh of relief realizing that I had gone from -50 degrees in the sub arctic to the +33 degrees of the tropics in a matter of 3 weeks was harder to deal with than I expected. 

We walked its entire length passing exclusive restaurants, luxury clothing boutiques, high end jewellery stores with price tags far exceeding our meagre allowance. We walked along the shores of the pool that follows the length of the mall, with men in black little hats providing traghetti boat rides between an escalator connecting this mall to the main floor of the hotel complex and the Marina Bay LRT station. 

Upon setting foot on the hotel grounds, staff were available to open every door. The main floor of the hotel was enthusiastically furnished with multiple restaurants, bakeries, sweet shops, hair salons and jewellery shops.  Julian pointed out an exterior wall he had encountered during his morning foray, which seemed to be breathing and rippling with life.  Convinced of the impossibility of a living wall I followed him outside to closer inspect  the situation.  Pieces of aluminium 6" by 4" were individually pivoted at their top edges and from top to bottom along the full width of the wall, allowing the breeze to dictate the movement of the wall as it pulsed and flowed with the air currents before me.  We took a moment to appreciate the design as we sat down to have a snack - Julian having his cheese boat while I choose the far healthier option of a rye bun with cheese.  In that moment the sun shone directly on this living wall and the breeze stilled, turning the whole thing into a mirror reflecting an absurd amount of light and heat upon us.

Walking back into the hotel we learned that it was possible to stand upon the outdoor viewing platform 58 stories above the harbour.  Of course this came at a price but Julian, being the avid photographer  that he is, decided to buy tickets and sign up for the exclusive free tour of the pool and lounge area for hotel guests only at 9pm.   This would allow us to see the city from above as it comes alive with its evening lights. We were thoughtfully admonished later by a fellow traveller, that we might have gained access for a much lesser sum had we just headed to the terrace bar for a drink.

The heat of the afternoon grew less intense as early evening rolled in.  After having walked the entire length of the mall and hotel, approximately 1km, we were at the far end of the harbour and stood before a alien like white building resembling a lotus flower; the Science and Art Museum.  Walking back in the direction which we had come the boardwalk offered endless options for food and drinks.  There stood another impressive building on its own platform in the harbour, clad entirely in reflective metal. I was disappointed to find out that it was a one of a kind Louis Vuitton store.

Julian was far more ambitious that my aching feet cared for as we returned the entire stretch of the promenade outside the Mall, then turning the corner completed the other two sides as well.  Passing the financial district, which stood similarly to any other big city financial district, we passed more restaurants and shops.  An oyster bar, a martini bar, heaps of top end hotels and finally to the Merlion.  The boardwalk wrapped around the front of the Merlion as the spray from its mouth was almost refreshing and more of a tease.  The water looking most inviting Julian took some photographs as I leaned against the rail attempting to take some weight off my feet.

A young child greeted us; a local boy no older than 12 years old engaged in a conversation which lasted about half an hour.   Within that half an hour I was convinced he was the most intelligent 12 year old I have ever met.  He knew everything about Julians camera, geography and foreign currency.  We offered him a 50 pence piece and in return he offered a trade.  Out of his wallet his produced a crisp Chinese 1 Yuan note with Chairman Mao pictured on the front.  He then continued to mingle with the other tourists playing a guessing game of where each person hailed from. 

Evening was soon upon us.  With a long walk back to the opposite end of the harbour we took a break on an outdoor restaurant sofa directly in front of the huge hotel which we were about to summit and enjoyed a refreshing beverage.  As darkness fell music played, fountains roared and lights danced around the harbour providing a lightshow to those passing by. 

The city has a great energy to it; weather you like your posh, pretentious atmosphere or more laid back styles there is something to suit everyone.  Even if you don't have the money to dish out on exclusive service you can still mingle with the millionaire set and make like you belong. 

Back at the hotel, the elevator took us up 58 stories in about 20 seconds.  The doors opened fluidly as a guest service assistant greeted us with a smile and directed us to the observation deck. We approached the railing and peered down at the city now transformed in the night.  The lotus flower science museum had lights reaching up into the sky from its petals.  The financial district, hotel and restaurant lights flickered as a lazer light show danced on the otherwise calm and quite waters. 

Following the terrance around to the back of the building I finally laid my eyes upon the busiest harbour on the planet.  Hundreds, perhaps thousands of boats were either coming, going or resting in the salt waters beyond.  I have never seen so many boats in one spot.

At 9pm a member of staff came to take the selected 20 people the private rooftop lounge.  A garden of palms and flowers lead way to an expansive rooftop patio of multiple hot tubs, bars and a restaurant.  The main feature is an endless pool which stretched across the entire length of the roof appearing to pour over the edges of the hotel 58 stories below.  The vibe up here resembled that of a cruise ship; It seems more than a little odd to find this world high in the night sky; a building, on a tropical island, pretending to be a ship, pretending to be a tropical island. I imagine people might easily spend their entire visit to Singapore in this very spot not leaving the hotel grounds at all.  

I was glad to be staying in Little India and personally feel travelling on a shoestring to much more fulfilling than the way I saw people living today. 

The Chinese and Japanese Gardens of Singapore

May 22, 2012

The next day only one destination was in mind; the Chinese and Japanese Gardens of Singapore. A gift from the Chinese government built in 1975 and designed by Prof. Yuen-chen Yu, an architect from Taiwan.  Julian had visited the gardens in 2000 en route to New Zealand and they had made such an impression on him he had promised to show them to me when we first began discussing this journey back in 2009. Finally, some three years later, we approached the gardens. 

The one thing that stands out immediately is a seven story pagoda situated on on a small hill that towers above the grounds.  The pagoda, originally a simple tower located beside a temple, was used as a mausoleum by Buddhists. Later incorporated with the traditional art of building, the pagoda with its now familiar curved roof lines has developed into a structure of striking architectural beauty.  The red roof with hints of gold, accents the white walls beautifully.  Here we had a choice to venture into either the Chinese or Japanese side;  the Chinese garden more visually striking in its architecture, the Japanese Garden intended to evoke emotion more through formal planting. Marble-chip paths lead your footsteps and allow you to meditate on the sound as you meander through one of the most peaceful city parks on the planet.

We strolled towards the Japanese Gardens first allowing the random choices at junctions to dictate our course and came first to the Garden of Abundance, still on the Chinese side. A 100 year old pomegranate tree alongside a statue park dedicated to the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac.  The Tiger,  the Rabbit, the Dragon, the Snake and so on. A little white bridge with red chinese characters crossed a small stream towards four, open sided, ornate roofed gazebos in front of a mature trees with trunks that reassembled thick roots intertwined, weaving their way upwards to a thick canopy of dark green leaves. Beyond lay a white walled, many arched arched bridge crossing the lake which surrounds the gardens and leading to the Japanese side. Here we paused to recreate a photo of Julians' from 12 years past and to cool off a little in the waters before continuing to the gardens beyond.

The gardens whilst flowing seamlessly from one part to another, are punctuated by various buildings which appear to define the nature of the designs around them. First is a structure that appears to be a family home, a simple one story "dwelling" of classic Japanese design with a balcony of sorts overlooking the water garden at the rear. The pond is teeming with small fish and and arched wooden bridge leads to a meticulous island rock garden. Another small stream leads you away from the house and winds its way through a shady portion, the path following the water course which trickled around stepping stones surrounded with Japanese art such as miniature stone houses and stone lamps lining the banks along with exotic flowers, perfectly manicured grass and shrubs before opening out once more into a much bigger body of water, this time covered with lilies, some of which were in flower.  Turtles and brightly coloured fish resided here and on the opposite bank another building, this time a large pavilion, open on three sides, a public space. Following the path around we crossed more red painted arched bridges spanning the lake and lost track of which of the waterways were flowing and which were still. A crane fished from an island 200m away and as we navigated the farthest extremes of the garden we turned back towards where we came. A stone archway stood in solitude amongst the lilies as I sat upon a rock, overcome with feelings of peace and well-being.

The hours passed unnoticed as we wandered into the Chinese Gardens; the main characteristic is the integration of splendid architectural features with the natural environment.  Impressive structures housed in a walled bonsai garden and a tea house were unfortunately closed by the time we got there as the sun was setting.  A statue of the philosopher Confucius (551–479 BC) overlooked a small lake and a stone boat structure based on Peking design.  

We strolled beneath a circular whitewashed, red capped arch-way connecting three metre high walls, dividing these individual sections much as the thicker planting vegetation had done on the Japanese side. Beyond lay a complex of buildings housing the turtle collection and a cloistered area around a Koy carp pond. Through these areas lay another white walled bridge similar to the one we had found earlier, this time leading to the main entrance of the 

gardens. 

We had apparently entered through the "back gate" and made our way now through to the front. We turned and admired the gorgeous entrance house before following the path to our left to the waters edge towards the twin pagodas overlooking the surrounding lake, separating us from the rest of the city. Here on the grass I slipped off my shoes and into a peaceful meditation into the mindful solitude of my yoga practice as the sun set across the water.

With darkness approaching as it does at such speed this near the equator, we explored the entrance buildings more thoroughly under the thoughtfully set lighting and made our way slowly back across the park towards the pagoda, Julian pausing to punctuate the stillness of the evening with an all too frequent "click" of his camera shutter. Truly, these gardens should be on everybody's "must see" list whilst in Singapore. A Feng Shui gem in a modern metropolis.

Singapore Air

May 20, 2012

We flew from Hong Kong to Singapore via Singapore Air and goodness what an experience that was; like the Holiday Inn vs the Hilton.   With his penchant for Asian beauty it had been a long term dream of Julians' to fly with the famous airline, consistently recognized as the worlds best, a flight up to this point only delayed by prohibitive costs in the past. The Boeing 777 itself was beautifully upholstered and more spacious than others we had been on both with more leg room as well as cleverly designed overhead storage which seemed to melt into the roof giving more ceiling height than other airlines limiting the claustrophobic feeling usually associated with our standard cattle class seats. The gold and browns were calming, each seat had a wool blanket and if the pillows were not silk they definitely felt like it.  The highlight of the trip though was definitely the Singaporean stewardesses. They wore form fitting, full length dresses heavily embroidered in gold with a base colour of either blue, green or red depending on rank.  Their hair was identically styled,  red lips, perfect makeup, tiny waistlines and to complete the ensemble each spoke perfect English with a soft Singaporean accent.  We spent a happy hour admiring our caretakers as each of them made their way up and down the compainionways preparing for the flight, offering cups of chilled oolong tea and administering to every little excuse the passengers could find for some personal attention. Rather than the usual practice of hauling a cart loaded with hot meals down the aircraft, hollering unceremoniously at the passengers as to whether they would prefer "beef or chicken, sir?"  we were presented with menus, fine printed as one might find in a restaurant and as our airborne angels glided down the length of the cabin.  As a finishing touch we were presented with a small tub of Haagen Daas ice cream as desert. It's the little things that make the difference and Singapore Airlines really take care of the little things to make even their lowliest passengers feel special. 

We arrived late and being after midnight the public transport system was shut down for the night; we took a cab from the airport to our accommodation in Little India.  Once out of the cab the air is the first thing that strikes the un-acclimatised.  Considerably warmer than Hong Kong any breeze was masked by the three or four story buildings lining the narrow street; the air hung heavy and still with tantalizing aromas of curry and spices lingering from the evenings' activity.  

Hong Kong

May 17-20, 2012

The flight here (Vancouver to Hong Kong direct, 13 hours) was surprisingly enjoyable. We left at 1:30PM after a lovely Champagne breakfast with Nancy and her boyfriend Tim then took off to the airport and flew with Air Canada. In flight entertainment is great these days and I found myself caught up in the "Children" film category which had many old disney films I had not seen in years.
By the time we got to Hong Kong I was feeling pretty knackered though. Thankfully we had excellent directions to our accommodation. 
I have come across source for very cheap accommodation. Its called AirBnB. I HIGHLY recommend it. Google it and check it out for prices WAY cheaper than hotels and even cheaper than the hostels I have looked at. 
Our host Joe met us once we got off the bus and showed us to our room - a private apartment on the 28th floor of a high-rise building. I think we paid like $17 per night or something ridiculous cheap. (Serioulsy, check out AirBnB for accommodation next time you travel - so good). Joe has lived in Hong Kong his entire life and offered to spend the following day with us. 
That night before going to bed we decided to seek a meal. We walked around the local neighbourhood which is in the outskirts of the main centre of Hong Kong which resulted in no english what so ever. It was dark, crowded, the air was hot and humid and foreign smells lingered in the air. All the glowing signs in Chinese characters. Carcasses of cooked birds hung in the windows, soup stalls with pictures of snakes, tiny restaurants with people on outdoor stools eating things I didn't recognize. At this time we had made a incorrect guess at the value of a Hong Kong dollar and everything appeared to be ridiculously expensive with bowls of soup costing over $50cnd apparently. Confused, jet lagged, hungry and now irritated we getting a bit frustrated. We attempted to purchase 2 pears from a fruit stall and the lady insisted we pay her $32 which was definitely not happening. We found a grocery store and bought some eggs, smoked salmon, yogurt, bananas, milk and bread which came to about $150HK. Shaking our heads and wiping our brow we retreated to the comfort of our tiny apartment (which was about 30 degrees) on the 28th floor, ate a banana and crashed. 
The next morning I woke at 5:30 am to an empty apartment.  I pulled open the curtains to find the famous skyline of Hong Kong a grey silhouette in the light of dawn, a cloud of heat hugging the land. The sun had not yet risen and a mountains rose up from the sea. Absolutely one of the most incredible city views I have ever seen. I got out my yoga mat going through the sun salutations as the sun rose from behind the mountain bathing its light upon me which was almost too much to bare as the air was hot enough already. Julian came into the apartment then after having had his sunrise walk around the neighbourhood. 
We called Joe around 830am who came out to meet us to take us into the city. We got onto the public transport which took us into the city. 
He walked us through the streets and to an area with many market stalls selling fresh fruit and veggies. He introduced us to the foreign produce, purchasing and tasting many different things, telling us what they are and how to eat them. He then took us into a covered market space housing a plethora of live and dead seafood. From gutted fish on ice to live fish in buckets which stall keepers were butchering on site when ordered. A net of live frogs. A bucket of eels. I did not see one western person the entire time we were in this area. Down an alley with the smell of freshly baked sweet things. We ate a white pastry with flavours of white pepper, water chestnut, leeks and pork. He introduced us to fabulous cold beverages. Chilled coconut and pear tea. Chilled sweet plum tea. Delicious. And so Cheap!!! I didn't see a can of coke or potato chips once around there parts. 
A Taoist temple with a red roof. Incense. Everywhere. Hundreds of spirals of it hung from the ceiling, burning. 4 different altars dedicated to different gods. Lots of gold and red. 
Botanical Gardens - exotic plants and birds. History of Hong Kong museum. 
A walk down Temple Street - the busiest street in Hong Kong with the largest flee market in the Territory. Very cheap merchandise and food; absolutely crowded with people. 
A walk around Time Square with the largest shops of brand names I have ever seen (far larger than London). Chanel, Armani, Louis Vutton etc etc etc. 
Took the Ferry over to Hong Kong Island with gorgeous views of the Harbour. Such a beautiful city to look at. Hong Kong Island is much more modern than much of the mainland. More brand name shops and massive shopping malls. Joe took us down some back alley ways to a tiny restaurant where we had Beef Noodle soup for dinner which cost about $3.50cnd each. So good! 
We took the ferry back over around dusk just as the night was coming alive - the harbour lit beautifully.